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Battery Relocation: There are many reasons why you would want to move the battery out of the engine compartment, and Summit Racing battery cables help...
Battery Relocation: There are many reasons why you would want to move the battery out of the engine compartment, and Summit Racing battery cables help you do it.
Regulations: Our battery cable kits meet the standards specified by most sanctioning bodies
Three Lengths: Choose the cable kit with the positive cable length you need
Many racers relocate their battery to the trunk of the vehicle, as it transfers some weight to the rear axle, keeps the battery cooler, and it makes room in the engine bay for other modifications, like intercooler piping. Summit Racing universal battery cable kits feature 1-gauge...
Battery Relocation: There are many reasons why you would want to move the battery out of the engine compartment, and Summit Racing battery cables help you do it.
Regulations: Our battery cable kits meet the standards specified by most sanctioning bodies
Three Lengths: Choose the cable kit with the positive cable length you need
Many racers relocate their battery to the trunk of the vehicle, as it transfers some weight to the rear axle, keeps the battery cooler, and it makes room in the engine bay for other modifications, like intercooler piping. Summit Racing universal battery cable kits feature 1-gauge cables with silicone insulation, and come with battery terminals, firewall grommets, and insulated Adel clamps for securing the cables (additional contents vary by application, see the individual product descriptions for details).
A: Because of the greater distance, and the rigors of racing, you want to use cables with a thicker gauge than stock (which is typically 6-gauge or 4-gauge). Our cable kits use 1-gauge positive and negative cables, which can handle up to 200 amps.
A: Smaller-gauge wires have more electrical resistance, so if the cable running from your trunk to your starter is undersized, you will probably encounter voltage drop, causing slow cranking, overheated cables, and possible starter damage.
Oversized cables are heavier and more expensive per foot, and typically not needed in most applications, but may be necessary for the high amperage required to crank diesel or high-compression, large-displacement engines. For most applications, our 1-gauge cables are just right, but using a cable current vs. length sizing chart is the most accurate way to be sure you’re using the correct gauge cable.
A: The core of a battery cable is usually made of multiple copper wires (or strands) wound together into a conductor. A higher strand count (using thinner individual wires) makes the cable more flexible. Some flexibility is useful during installation of a trunk battery cable, but stiffness will help it stay in place better. Overall conductor gauge determines max amperage, regardless of strand count.
A: Our battery cable kits include Adel clamps (also referred to as P-clamps) to secure the cables to your frame. They have insulation to help grip the cable and absorb vibrations. When passing a battery cable through metal like a firewall, an insulated bulkhead connector should be used like a Summit Racing Bulkhead Cable Connector to avoid the risk of a dangerous short to ground on sharp metal.
A: Tinned copper wires have a thin coating of tin to provide extra corrosion resistance. This is useful for marine or utility applications, but it’s overkill for most automotive applications.
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Battery Cables, Silicone Jacket, Oxygen Free Copper, 1-Gauge, 3 ft. Long Black, 16 ft. Long Red, Clamps, Grommets, Lugs and Adapters, Kit
Part Number: SUM-G1206-1
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Estimated Ship Date: Today
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